Robin redbreast, das Rotkehlchen

When I was a little girl, I was told to watch for the first robin of spring, a big, sturdy bird that liked to eat earthworms. But the fact is that the REAL robin doesn’t come to America at all, and in many parts of Europe, he doesn’t even migrate. The first time I saw him, he was up to his feathers in snow!

This plucky little fellow, pictured above, is the real robin redbreast. He’s smaller than a sparrow, and he looks more like a Christmas ornament than a bird. The Germans call him das Rotkehlchen, from the words rot (red) and die Kehle (the throat), plus -chen, an ending that means “little.” So he’s “the little red-throated guy.”

Why do we Americans wait each spring for an entirely different red-throated guy? Because our ancestors pined for their robins. They gave the familiar word to an unfamiliar bird in order to make themselves feel more at home.

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Black Forest Pantheon

Schwarzwälder Dom (the Black Forest Cathedral)

In February, Joe and I visited the small, elegant town of St. Blasien, in Germany’s Schwarzwald, or Black Forest—an appropriate visit to make since February 3rd is St. Blaise’s feast day. There we encountered an unusually magnificent gem of a church, the so-called Dom St. Blasius.

A community of Benedictine monks lived in this valley from before the eighth century, but it wasn’t until 858 that they obtained a relic of St. Blaise and took his name for their church and abbey. The Benedictines remained in possession of this abbey for at least a thousand years, withstanding fire and plague, but in 1806, the abbey and lands became the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and the abbot and his monks—as well as the bodies of fourteen Hapsburg nobles—had to move to Austria. The abbey and church didn’t just fall into disrepair at this point; no, they were actively disrepaired, and a fire in 1874 destroyed the domed church. But in 1878, a kindlier Grand Duke promised restoration, and that restoration duly took place, although not until 1913 was the church fully rebuilt and reconsecrated. Now the magnificent Dom serves as the town’s parish church, and the Jesuits run a private school in the nearby abbey buildings.

St. Blaise's Fountain (Blasiusbrunnen) in front of the Dom St. Blasius

This statue of St. Blaise dates from 1714 and stands in front of the Dom. According to very old tradition, St. Blaise was an Armenian doctor who was so holy that the people proclaimed him bishop when their old bishop died. In spite of the fact that Constantine had issued an edict against the persecution of Christians, St. Blaise was martyred in 316, having first been beaten and then torn with iron combs to persuade him to renounce the faith. As he was being led away to execution, a mother brought him her child, choking on a fish bone. St. Blaise prayed for the child, who then recovered. This is why, every year, we Catholics line up on the Sunday following St. Blaise’s feast day to receive the blessing of St. Blaise on our throats.

Hl. Blasius

The word “Dom” seems particularly suited to this church. Its dome is actually larger than that of St. Paul’s in London. But this is a dome without a church. Or, rather, the dome IS the church. There’s a little bit of a front vestibule at one end, a thin choir with an organ at the other end, and everything else is pure dome.

White marble interior of Dom St. Blasius (St. Blaise's Cathedral), St. Blasien, Germany

When I first saw this beautiful eccentricity, I concluded that some bishop had been to St. Peter’s and said, “I’ve got to have one of those.” In fact, I was seriously maligning a holy and enlightened man of God, Prince Abbot (Fürst­abt) Martin II Gerbert. When his church burned in 1768, this abbot considered what the most appropriate church would be for a community of monks, and to answer that question, he looked to the form of the Pantheon in Rome, the church dedicated to all saints, and perhaps also to the abbey chapter house. In an abbey’s chapter house, the entire community meets at once, sitting around the walls of what is often a round room: a place in which the abbey rule is read and the monks discuss community matters. Thus, extrapolating these two ideas to a church, the abbot envisioned a round room ringed with altars and stained-glass windows of saints: a chapter house of heaven, one might say, in which monks could see themselves as members of a much larger and more illustrious community, with Christ Himself seated in the abbot’s chair.

Sadly, the stained-glass windows of the saints are now gone, lost to fires, but eight altars remain to provide us a hint of that larger community. And the experience of standing inside this highly polished and astonishingly white Dom/dome does indeed transport us away from the little town surrounded by forest to a different plane of reality altogether.

White marble interior of Dom St. Blasius (St. Blaise's Cathedral), St. Blasien, Germany

To read my latest blog posts, please click on the “Green and Pleasant Land” logo at the top of this page. Photos taken in February, 2013, in St. Blasien, Germany. Text and photos copyright 2013 by Clare B. Dunkle. No copying in whole or in part without the express written consent of the author.

Posted in Churches and religion, Folk traditions, German art, German history | 2 Comments

This word is the origin of my surname, Dunkle. Many English-speakers know that dunkel means dark. But it also means mysterious, impenetrable, secret, or murky. And the noun, das Dunkel, can also mean an enigma. Still, it’s most commonly used to describe actual darkness, and that’s been appropriate lately. According to Spiegel Online, this has been Germany’s darkest winter in over four decades.

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The Dark Days

Photo taken in Rodenbach, Germany, November, 2012

It’s late autumn in the Rheinland-Pfalz, and the days are foggy, frosty, and short. Even the kestrel, the little cinnamon-colored hawk who hunts in the fields next to my house, can’t seem to keep his eyes open, and the fiery orange and red leaf displays of early autumn have drained away to pewter.

Photo taken in Rodenbach, Germany, in November, 2012

All over Germany, Christmas markets have opened, but they haven’t yet lured me out into the cold. So where am getting my German practice these days? I’m sitting at home reading. And since I write YA fiction, what I’m reading is YA fiction: a lively, irreverent book from the Dutch author, Francine Oomen. It wakes me up and makes a nice contrast to the December gloom.

from the series, "Rosas schlimmste Jahre"

This book, Volume Two in the series called “Rosas schlimmste Jahre” (“Rosa’s Worst Years”), takes a lighthearted look at teenagers and body image. The title, Wie überlebe ich meinen dicken Hintern? (How Do I Survive My Fat Rear?), makes it clear that weight is a factor in Rosa’s worries, and since I’m currently writing an anorexia memoir, I thought it would be interesting to see what Rosa goes through. But language practice can’t just be relevant to hold my interest. It has to be fun. And fortunately, Rosa–alternately thoughtless, reckless, and dramatic–may drive her parents crazy, but she’s always fun.

I do have paper dictionaries, but when I’m already flipping pages, I don’t want to flip even more, so I rely on apps and websites for my language support. My first search is always Leo.org because it’s quick and easy and because I like that it puts the article in for me (der Hund) rather than tell me its gender (Hund, m). I remember the article better when I read it along with the noun. In a typical search, Leo gives me a link to the sound file and verb conjugation chart as well as displays a number of common phrases that use a word. Beyond that, it links to useful material in the Leo forum, where translators ask for help defining the exact meaning and usage of words. Leo also helps me by understanding the American keyboard spelling of German umlauts and can interpret “waehlen,” for example, to mean wählen or “stoss” to mean Stoß. I have the Leo app installed on my Android phone and on my iPad, and the Android app will even suggest the most likely words I might be looking for as I’m typing. That saves me time.

Beyond Leo.org, the next most useful website I rely on is Linguee. Linguee is a wonderful website that searches hundreds of other websites that put out information in both German and English. A search on Linguee not only gives me the meaning of a German word but shows it in context in dozens of different paragraphs along with its English translation in those same contexts. It’s unbelievably handy if I’m not exactly sure how a word should be used and what its alternative translations could be. I don’t know how I survived without Linguee. But I’m careful to put in the exact German spelling of the word, umlauts and all, because Linguee will only be as good as my spelling. A search on “waehrend” won’t pull up the same results as a search on “während.”

For certain kinds of searches, Duden Online is ideal. Duden is a German-only dictionary, so it shows no English, but it gives a word’s synonyms and its etymology, shows examples, links to a sound file, and gives me critical grammar information. It also clarifies which words are slang and which words belong to a regional dialect. (To be fair, Leo does this too.)

But what if I can’t understand the Duden entry? That’s where Google Translate comes in. I have the Google Translate bar installed on my web browser. When I come to a page that is in German (and is coded as being in German), Google Translate automatically pops a message up at the top, asking me if I want to translate that page. If I do, the result is instantaneous (but not always perfect) English. But the German isn’t lost. If I hover my mouse over a sentence, a little window pops open to show me its original German text.

So, while small crumbs of snow whirl past the window and iron-hard frost grips the gray fields outside, I’m curled up with Rosa’s Worst Years, learning how to throw temper tantrums in German, with all my online reference sources for company.

Photo taken in Rodenbach, Germany, in November, 2012

To read my latest blog posts, please click on the “Green and Pleasant Land” logo at the top of this page. Photos taken in November, 2011, in Weilerbach, Germany. Text and photos copyright 2012 by Clare B. Dunkle. No copying in whole or in part without the written consent of the author.

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Last week, while Joe was gone to the States, my friend Heidi called to check up on me. “Getting lots done?” she asked.

“Not really,” I said. “I should, but…”

“But it’s your innerer Schweinehund,” she finished. “Now, that’s a good word for you to know!”

Der Hund is a hound. Das Schwein is a pig. Put them together, and you get der Schweinehund, the pig-dog: a person who is a swine, or a jerk, or a stinker. But according to Linguee.com, most people nowadays don’t call others that insult, they reserve it for themselves–or at least for the part of themselves that won’t get off the couch and get to work. Der innere Schweinehund is our lack of willpower or our weaker self.

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Migration

Photo taken in November, 2011

To our great delight and lasting enrichment, Joe and I are once again in Germany. We moved back to Rodenbach in July, but I had no time for the blog because I was working on two manuscripts at once. I’m still working on two manuscripts at once, and I still have no time, but I’m restarting the blog anyway. It has a positive effect on how I see my surroundings here. It makes me notice and enjoy things, and it encourages me to get out and learn. But I won’t be able to write posts as long as the ones I wrote before, at least not at first. I’ll have to limit myself to just a photo and paragraph or two.

Migration is something Joe and I did to get to Germany, but it’s also something the birds have done lately. Now that it’s winter, I sometimes feel that the crows and their clown-suit cousins, the magpies, are the only birds left around here. I live at the edge of wheat fields, and this summer, twittering bands of barn swallows swooped over the fields or settled down in the eaves of nearby houses and chattered and gossiped together. But now that it’s winter, they’re gone, along with a host of other talkative birds. The autumn days are quiet, with only, every now and then, the crow’s brassy, ominous call.

Maybe because I’m a writer, I like to know the names of things, but since I’m a traveler, I often don’t. My mother has lived in north Texas almost her whole life, and she seems to know the name of every wildflower and passing bird. I didn’t realize how many of those names she had passed on to me. I took for granted being able to glance out the window and say, “That’s a grackle” or “There’s a house finch” or “Listen to that bluejay!” But now that I’m in Germany, I’ve stepped outside the circle of things I can name. German birds are different from my mother’s birds back home. So I own a book now: Birds of Europe. And every time I see a new bird, I run grab my book and look it up. That’s how I’ve gotten to know the barn swallows this year; also white wagtails, Eurasian jays, green woodpeckers, merlins, redstarts, and other birds that are normal, everyday sights here but mysterious and exotic to me.

I’m growing. I’m expanding my circle of named things.

To read my latest blog posts, please click on the “Green and Pleasant Land” logo at the top of this page. Photo taken in November, 2011, in Weilerbach, Germany. Text and photos copyright Clare B. Dunkle.

Posted in Daily life, German wildlife, Rural scenery, Seasons | 4 Comments

Most German language courses teach their students to say, “Guten Morgen!” “Guten Tag!” or “Guten Abend!” Since these greetings are formal, they will always be appropriate. However, Germans passing on the street may simply say, “Tag!” or one of its regional equivalents like “Grüß Gott!” or “Servus!” or “Moin!” In my part of Germany, where there are many Americans, they also may say, “Hallo!” I think that’s because they’ve gotten used to us saying, “Hello!” all the time.

Germans use “Hallo!” to draw attention to something, the way we use the word “Hey!” A German might say, “Hallo, Sie haben etwas verloren!” (“Hey, you’ve lost something!”) to let you know that you’ve accidentally dropped an item. If your front door is open, a German visitor might call, “Hallo!” while walking inside in the same tone that we would use to say, “Hello? Is anyone there?”

Germans also use “Hallo!” to express pleased surprise, particularly when they’ve been looking for something and suddenly spot it. In this case, “Hallo!” is like our “Aha!”

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Auf Wiedersehen in Rodenbach!

Photo taken in January, 2012

When I was a kid back in Texas, my brother Anthony used to call out, “Our feet are the same!” whenever he was leaving. This was, of course, a childish joke on the German phrase, “Auf Wiedersehen!” Being an ignorant little pre-adolescent, I thought it was hysterical and highly sophisticated. (Okay, I’ll admit it: My brother still says this, and I still laugh.)

The first few weeks I was in Germany, I was puzzled by the roadside signs that read, “Auf Wiedersehen in [our town]!” “Goodbye IN”–shouldn’t it be “Goodbye TO”? But Auf Wiedersehen doesn’t mean goodbye. It means see you later. “See you later in our town!” That’s a much more hopeful thing to say.

I’ve kept this blog for five months, since the week after I arrived in Rodenbach, Germany. Joe and I go back to Texas in a couple of weeks, so I’m stopping the blog for now. But we expect to be back in Europe by summertime, so I’m not going to say goodbye. I’m going to say, “See you later in Rodenbach!” And I’ll start up the blog when I get back.

The last thing I’m going to do is show you around the apartment that’s been our home here. If you’re lucky, you may get to call it home too. It’s a TLF (temporary living facility) rented by the week or month, and it’s the perfect commute to Ramstein Air Base, Vogelweh, or Kaiserslautern. The address is Hübelbrunnenstrasse 18, and the Housing Office can put you in touch with our landlords, Rainer and Heidi Müller.

The photo above shows the whole house. Our apartment, with the two sets of lighted windows, takes up most of the ground floor. Our landlords’ front door, to the left, opens onto an entrance hall and stairs, and they live on the two floors above us.

Photo taken in January, 2012

Here’s a closer view of our apartment: the bedroom is on the left, and the living room is on the right. The steps lead to our entrance hall/mudroom.

Photo taken in January, 2012

This is a look at that entrance hall, which holds all our coats and some of our shoes. And beer! I keep it closed off to save on heating, so it’s the perfect temperature to store Joe’s prized Belgian beer–at least in the wintertime.

Photo taken in January, 2012

This is our living room. I’ve been so grateful that these windows face south. At this latitude, that means they bring in every available ray of light. Joe’s electronic drums are in the corner. He beats on his drums to alleviate stress.

Photo taken in January, 2012

Here’s another view of the living room. My printer lives on the big cabinet to the left, and my files and papers are inside it. The apartment has its own wireless network, which has given us the Internet, enabled me to use VOIP calling, and kept our cell phone costs low.

Photo taken in January, 2012

Here’s the view from the living room into the kitchen. What a great little kitchen! I’ve cooked everything from chickens to pies there. The table is where I do all my writing–with the teapot within easy reach. That wonderful little espresso maker sitting on the back of the stove may “accidentally” end up in our luggage…

Photo taken in January, 2012

The bathroom. The washing machine is behind the door. A dryer is arriving next week.

Photo taken in January, 2012

The storage room next to the bathroom was almost empty when we got here!

Photo taken in January, 2012

I love the bedroom. It’s very cute.

Photo taken in January, 2012

Another view of the bedroom. I brought the San Damiano crucifix with me that I’ve had since I was a child.

I’m going to miss this apartment. The whole time we’ve been here, I haven’t once felt cramped or confined. In fact, Joe and I have loved its cozy atmosphere. I can be writing at the table while Joe lies on the couch and surfs the web. At home, we’d be in different rooms. Here, we’re together. It’s made us rethink a lot of things about what we want in a home.

Photo taken in January, 2012

But I think I’ll miss you most of all, Brando.

To read my latest blog posts, please click on the “Green and Pleasant Land” logo at the top of this page. Photos taken in January, 2012, in Rodenbach, Germany. Text and photos copyright Clare B. Dunkle.

Posted in Daily life | 2 Comments

What exactly does “Auf Wiedersehen!” mean? Auf means at, upon, or on. Sehen means to see, and wieder means again. So “Auf Wiedersehen!” means, “At our seeing each other again!” Or, in other words, “See you later!”

Posted on by Clare Dunkle | 1 Comment

How Many People Live There?

Photo taken in January, 2012

Germany is not like the Texas suburbs I grew up in, with their obsessive-compulsive zoning laws separating business, homeowner, and apartment dweller. Many houses in Germany contain built-in apartments, and many regular homeowners are also landlords. Given their population/landmass ratio, Germans have only a ninth as much area per person as we have. Also, the majority of Germans rent instead of buy, so apartments are a fact of life. (“Buying”) And family ties are strong. A built-in apartment is a prudent way to provide for a child or an aging parent.

The very large house in the photo above certainly contains multiple families. We can see three separate entrances, for a start. But a house needn’t have a separate entrance to hold more than one household.

Photo taken in January, 2012

This charming house has only one front door. But that door opens onto a locked entrance hall and a stairwell. The homeowners live on the ground floor and basement floor–technically another ground floor since the house is built into a hill. Their tenant lives in an apartment under the roof.

Photo taken in January, 2012

Once you know to look for them, you’ll find evidence everywhere of apartments built into “regular” houses. You may notice a separate street entrance for a basement level.

Photo taken in January, 2012

And if it’s registered as a separate residence, it will have its own mailbox.

What does this mean for Americans who are moving to Germany?

It means that you will very likely end up with three floors. After living on three stories for seven years, I swore I wouldn’t do it again, but Joe and I have fallen in love with a two-story house that contains a full basement apartment. Many duplexes are three-story units as well.

It means that you may have two full kitchens. That second oven can be very handy when the holidays roll around.

It also means that your landlords may live just upstairs or downstairs from you. In my experience, that’s one of the nicest things that can happen.

Now go back to look at the cute little yellow house from last week’s post. Do you see the apartment (and its mailbox)?

HowToGermany.com. “Buying a House or Apartment in Germany.” n.d. Retrieved from http://www.howtogermany.com/pages/housebuying.html

To read my latest blog posts, please click on the “Green and Pleasant Land” logo at the top of this page. Photos taken in January, 2012, in Rodenbach and Weilerbach, Germany. Text and photos copyright Clare B. Dunkle and Joseph R. Dunkle.

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